Another side of Jinan's old city | Blogger's personal experience with the 3.5km Citywalk route (avoiding crowds in autumn)
Turning Jinan's old commercial district into a cultural and artistic citywalk was something I only figured out on my sixth visit to Jinan. The first five times I was stuck in the crowds on Qushuiting Street and Furong Street, until one autumn morning when I got off the train at the South Square of Jinan Railway Station and discovered that there was another rhythm to Jinan's life hidden between Jingwei Road and other streets.
This article doesn't cover Daming Lake or Baotu Spring. The main road is about 3.5 kilometers long, running along Jingyi Road, Weier Road, Jingsi Road, Jingsan Road, and Jinger Road, enclosing an old town area that connects a German-style station building, a Republic-era photo studio, a used book market, a community vegetable market, and several small shops without large signs. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk there, but it's recommended to allow at least 4 hours including stops. Two branch roads are marked near the church and the Imperial Palace Photo Studio, respectively.
I. German-style old station building and Jiaoji Railway Museum: the starting point of the history of the opening of the port
Start walking from the South Square of Jinan Railway Station, but don't rush into the station. The southeast corner of the square is the best spot to photograph the old station building and clock tower. The shadows of the plane trees are angled across the yellow stone wall, just avoiding the taxi lane. Stop for 5 minutes, look at the facade of the clock tower and the plane trees along Jingyi Road, and you'll quickly grasp the scale of Jinan's old commercial port.
Walking east along Jingyi Road for about 5 minutes, the Jiaoji Railway Museum is located on the north side of the road. The camera position is at the base of the west wall of the museum, framing the arched window frames and rusty railway tracks in the same shot. The reason for stopping for 5 minutes is very practical: this was originally the Jinan Station of the Jiaoji Railway, and the architectural details are full of the history of railway industry during the Republic of China era, which is more intuitive than looking at exhibition panels.
II. The Church and Cai Gongshi Memorial Hall on the Southern Section of Weier Road: Modern History Under the Red Bricks
Walking south along Weier Road for about 10 minutes from the museum, you'll find the Jingsi Road Christian Church at the southeast corner of the intersection with Jingsi Road. Position your camera outside the perimeter wall of the residential complex east of the church, using a low angle to capture the red brick tower and old utility poles. Stop for five minutes to examine the spire windows and signs of wall restoration—rare surviving examples of German Gothic architecture in Jinan's modern times.
Branch Line A is about a 3-minute walk east from the church, across the street, to the Cai Gongshi Memorial Hall, nestled next to a school. Admission is free, and it's usually not crowded. The camera was positioned on the stone steps in front of the hall, framing the exhibits related to the "May 3rd Massacre" alongside the old wooden door. Why it's worth stopping for 5 minutes: This was originally the Shandong Foreign Affairs Office during the Republic of China era, carrying immense historical weight, and is the only place on this route that allows you to find peace and quiet.
III. The corner of Jing Si Road vegetable market and the used book stalls in Zhongshan Park: the atmosphere of daily life and the smell of paper and ink
Walking west along Jing Si Road for about 5 minutes from the church, you'll reach the intersection of Wei Si Road and find a corner of a community vegetable market surrounded by old buildings. Don't take pictures of the storefronts; instead, crouch down and photograph the bamboo baskets in front of the vegetable stalls and the people picking out vegetables under the covered walkways of the old buildings. Stop for 5 minutes, listen to a few words of bargaining in Jinan dialect, and see the toon sprouts of late spring and lotus roots of autumn displayed according to the seasons—this is the local rhythm that maps won't tell you.
Walk south along Weisi Road for about 3 minutes from the vegetable market, enter through the north gate of Zhongshan Park, and the used book market is located on the west side of the park. The best spot for taking photos is before 10:00 AM, when the vendors have just laid out their old picture books and maps, allowing you to take pictures from above. Why it's worth stopping for 5 minutes: Zhongshan Park is one of Jinan's oldest urban parks, and the used book stalls often offer old maps of Jinan and 20th-century magazines, which have a much warmer feel than the items in tourist shops.
IV. East section of Jing San Road: Imperial Palace Photo Studio, Xiao Guanghan and Xiao Wei Er Road branch line
Exiting from the south gate of Zhongshan Park, walk east along Jingsan Road for about 5 minutes, and the yellow walls and Republican-era facade of the Imperial Palace Photo Studio will suddenly appear. Position your camera diagonally across the street, using the plane tree branches as a foreground to photograph the entire building. Stop for 5 minutes to look at the black-and-white portraits and hand-colored photographs in the window; this old photo studio has recorded the shining moments of generations of Jinan residents.
Branch Line B starts at the Royal Palace Photo Studio and walks south along Weisan Road for about 8 minutes, then turns onto Xiaowei Er Road. There are several vintage clothing stores, vinyl record shops, and small cafes that are only open in the afternoon. Photo spots are flexible, but please ask the shop owners before taking pictures, as many storefronts are so narrow that only one person can squeeze through sideways. Why it's worth stopping for 5 minutes: This branch line has no uniform signs; old-style apartment buildings on the ground floor are mixed with trendy displays; you might find a box of old vinyl records around the corner; and there are very few tourists.
Continue east on Jingsan Road for about 3 minutes; the Xiaoguanghan Film Museum is on the north side of the road. The best spot is on the sidewalk across the street, photographing the Baroque pediment and arched windows. The light is best after 4 PM. Stop for 5 minutes to look at the old movie posters and architectural details on the facade; there's no need to go inside and make a purchase—the exterior is essentially a static exhibit.
V. The Old Commercial Port Bookstores and the Old Banks Cluster on Jing'er Road: Highlights and Buffers
Walking east from Xiaoguanghan for about 6 minutes, you'll enter the Ronghui Old Commercial Port area. I recommend heading straight to Qianmo Bookstore; its selection leans towards Jinan local history and illustrated books about old buildings. The second-floor window offers a great spot for photographing the plane trees lining Jingsan Road. Why stop for 5 minutes: After walking the previous sections, you'll need to sit down and browse a few pages. The bookshelves inside the window and the old walls outside create the quietest scene along this route.
Leaving the old commercial district, walk west along Jing'er Road for about 6 minutes. Several old bank buildings from the Republican era stand side-by-side, their facades well-preserved. Position your camera at the intersection of Wei'si Road and look east, capturing the old bank's stone pillars and the signs of modern restaurants in the same frame. Stop for 5 minutes to examine the decorative moldings and inscriptions on the lintels – this is the essence of Jinan's old financial street. Finally, walk south along Wei'si Road for about 2 minutes, returning to the south gate of Zhongshan Park, where the main road loops out.
VI. Blogger's Summary and Practical Tips
This route is suitable for those who want to avoid crowds and appreciate old buildings and the vibrancy of city life, especially in the early mornings of autumn or late spring. The overall pace is to first explore historical buildings, then delve into local life in the middle section, and conclude with bookstores and cafes in the latter half, making it a pleasant and not tiring hike.
Practical tips: The Jiaoji Railway Museum is closed on Mondays, but taking photos outside is not affected; the Zhongshan Park used book market is busiest on weekend mornings, so choose weekdays if you want fewer crowds; the vintage clothing and vinyl record shops on Xiaowei Second Road (branch line B) open in the afternoon, so don't go too early and miss out; the Christian Church on Jing Fourth Road can be photographed all year round, but the tower is clearer in winter after the plane tree leaves have fallen; there are no entrance fees for the entire trip, only food and books, which can be purchased as needed.
