A Daily Meal in Hefei: A Timeline of Local Flavors from Spicy Soup in the Morning to Crayfish at Night

Early morning breakfast stall: Spicy soup, potstickers, and Sanhe rice dumplings

In Hefei, a morning often begins with a bowl of spicy soup. The broth is made from pork bones or chicken carcasses, with added shredded tofu skin, kelp, and peanuts, thickened with sweet potato starch to a semi-liquid consistency, and sprinkled with white pepper before serving. The initial taste is smooth and warm, followed by a peppery spiciness that rises from the back of the tongue, leaving a light sweat on the forehead after finishing a bowl. In the damp, cold mornings of the Jianghuai region, spicy soup serves to warm the body and stimulate the appetite; breakfast stalls in the old city often close down once the pot is empty.

The go-to accompaniment to spicy soup is potstickers. Hefei potstickers are typically made with semi-fermented dough, filled with water-soaked pork, and then pan-fried in rapeseed oil over a large, flat pan. Before removing them from the pan, a little water is sprinkled on top to release steam, resulting in a crispy bottom, a chewy and soft dough, and juicy filling. Locals often dip the potstickers directly into the spicy soup; the aroma of the dough absorbs the peppery flavor of the soup, creating a delightful contrast of crispness and smoothness, providing a satisfying morning meal.

Sanhe rice dumplings are another breakfast option, originating from Sanhe Town in Feixi County. Rice flour is scalded with boiling water, kneaded into a dough, and filled with a mixture of dried tofu, dried shrimp, minced meat, and chopped scallions. The dumplings are then deep-fried in rapeseed oil until golden brown and bubbly. Freshly fried, the dumplings have a crispy outer shell, and when bitten into, the aroma of rice and the savory flavor of river seafood are released simultaneously. The filling is not very juicy but is dry, fragrant, and chewy. In the past, they were a convenient snack at the docks and markets, and they are still enjoyed by Hefei residents for a change of pace.

Midday at a local eatery: Feixi old hen soup and edamame with fried sauce

During lunchtime, Hefei locals place great importance on the pairing of soup with side dishes. Feixi Old Hen Soup is a signature dish in many small restaurants. It uses old hens with long rearing periods, chopped into pieces and placed in an earthenware pot with only ginger slices and a small amount of water, simmered over low heat for several hours. When served, the soup has a golden chicken fat floating on the surface, a clear broth, and firm chicken meat fibers. Hefei locals don't pursue thick, white soup, but rather its fresh, clean taste and sweet aftertaste. A spoonful of hot soup mixed with rice is a hearty comfort on a workday.

Edamame with soybean paste is a common home-style dish that almost every household makes. Fresh edamame is stir-fried with diced pork tenderloin and diced dried tofu, seasoned with local fermented soybean paste and soy sauce, and the sauce is reduced until glossy. The edamame retains its sweet and granular texture, while the diced pork and dried tofu absorb the savory flavor, and the sauce coats the surface of the ingredients. It is also easy to store at room temperature and is often packed into lunchboxes, served with a side of stir-fried vegetables, making it a staple combination for meals in small, local restaurants.

Afternoon snack stall: Duck fat sesame cakes and red bean paste

Around three or four in the afternoon, street food stalls experience a brief peak. Duck fat sesame cakes are a traditional Hefei flavor, made with rendered duck fat instead of lard in the dough, filled with scallion and salt or osmanthus sugar filling, and baked against the oven wall. The baked cakes have flaky layers that crumble easily when held in the hand, and the duck fat brings a rich, meaty aroma without being fishy or greasy. It's a traditional Hefei afternoon tea snack, as well as a light meal on the way home from school or get off work.

If you prefer a sweeter taste, you can also order a bowl of red bean paste. The red beans are soaked in advance, cooked until they become mushy, and then small glutinous rice balls or lotus root starch are added and simmered until it becomes a deep red, thick, semi-fluid consistency. It has a smooth and creamy bean flavor, with occasional whole beans adding a chewy texture. The sweetness comes from the ingredients themselves and a small amount of sugar. A bowl of red bean paste in the afternoon won't fill you up, but it can restore some energy, making it the gentlest respite from the day for people in Hefei.

Late-night food stalls: Hefei crayfish

In Hefei, crayfish is an indispensable part of late-night dining. As an important freshwater crayfish producing area in the Jianghuai region, local food stalls prepare crayfish in a straightforward way: remove the heads and backs of live crayfish, then simmer them in a braising liquid, minced garlic, or thirteen-spice broth over high heat to quickly tighten the meat. When served, the shells are bright red, and the meat inside is tender and bouncy. Your fingertips first taste the spiciness and saltiness of the broth, then bite into the creamy roe. This is often paired with ice-cold beer, with people sitting around plastic stools, the table piled high with crayfish shells.

In Hefei, crayfish is more than just a seasonal late-night snack; it embodies the everyday social life. After dinner, a few people gather, order a bowl of crayfish, and slowly peel and chat until the night air grows cool. It brings together the day's hustle and bustle into the repetitive act of peeling crayfish at the same table, allowing Hefei's authentic flavors to extend from the spiciness of the morning to the savory freshness of the late night.

From the streets to the alleys, experience the city through its food in a single day.