Dali Night Tour Route | A route I walked for three nights before daring to write about, showcasing the twilight and dawn at Erhai Lake (not a popular online route).

Most nighttime tour guides for Dali focus on the main street of the ancient city, but what truly lingers in my memory is the last layer of bluish-gray skylight on the west bank of Erhai Lake, and the clanging sound of Bai ethnic uncles banging their tea roasting pots deep within Pingdeng Road in the ancient city. This route was compiled after three consecutive nights of walking during the transition between the dry and rainy seasons. It's a simplified, replicable route from 6:00 PM to 11:30 PM, suitable for those who want to avoid the touristy main street but still capture great photos at night.

The entire route doesn't rely on chartered vehicles; you can complete it entirely using shared electric bikes and walking. The sequence is: "Twilight lights on the west bank of Erhai Lake → Night market on Lvyu Road → Bai ethnic teahouse on Pingdeng Road → Late-night ending outside the ancient city wall." I've listed the duration of each segment below for your convenience.

First stop: 18:00-19:10 Twilight on the west bank of Erhai Lake and the lights along the lake shore. Don't wait for dark in the crowds of Caicun.

It's recommended to start from Longkan Wharf, rather than the more bustling Caicun Wharf. Arrive at Longkan Wharf around 6:00 PM, then walk along the ecological corridor towards Caicun or ride a shared electric scooter. The one-way trip is about 3 kilometers and takes 10 to 15 minutes. Motor vehicles are prohibited on this section of the road. The streetlights on the lakeside will turn on after sunset, their warm yellow light reflecting on the surface of Erhai Lake, making it even quieter than during the day.

Longkan Wharf has an arc-shaped platform extending into the lake, which is the best spot for taking photos. Between 18:20 and 18:50, you can capture the silhouette of Cangshan Mountain and the lingering blue light on the lake. Wait until the streetlights are fully lit before proceeding. Do not continue walking into the unlit boardwalk deeper into Caicun Wharf after it is completely dark, as the waterfront platform there has no railings and it is easy to slip and fall at night.

Second stop: 19:30-21:00 Green Jade Road Night Market, the locals' barbecue hotspot after get off work.

It takes about 20 minutes to reach the Lvyu Road Night Market by shared electric bike from Caicun Wharf. This section involves crossing Dali Road, which is busy with large vehicles at night, so it's recommended to use the non-motorized vehicle lane and avoid going against traffic. The Lvyu Road Night Market differs from the tourist-friendly Fuxing Road and Renmin Road markets; it's more frequented by locals returning from get off work in Xiaguan, and the stalls offer more Bai ethnic home-style cooking.

After trying them all, my three go-to choices are charcoal-grilled rice cakes, clay pot rice noodles, and a small stall with only a handwritten wooden sign that says "Roasted Milk Fan." For the charcoal-grilled rice cakes, choose the ones with chili sauce and pickled vegetables; the outer skin is crispy, while the inside retains the chewy texture of rice cakes. The clay pot rice noodles are served with the soup still bubbling, perfect for a slightly chilly evening. The whole street is affordable; you can eat your fill for just a few dozen yuan per person, so there's no need to worry about the menu.

There's a small shop in the night market that sells cold chicken rice noodles. The owner will ask you, "Do you want some sweet soy sauce?" You absolutely must add it; it's the soul of Dali's local flavor. It gets crowded after 8 PM, so I recommend arriving before 7:30 PM. You can eat the grilled rice cakes while waiting in line for the clay pot rice noodles.

Third stop: 21:15-22:30 Pingdeng Road Bai Ethnic Tea House, enjoy a pot of roasted tea while listening to the sanxian (a three-stringed instrument).

It's about a 10-12 minute walk from the Luyu Road night market to the northern section of Pingdeng Road. I chose this place because most bars in Dali Old Town play the same folk songs played nationwide, while this Bai ethnic teahouse on Pingdeng Road still preserves the traditional method of roasting tea in earthenware pots. There are no neon signs; there's only a handwritten wooden sign at the entrance, so you have to look carefully to find it at night.

The uncle would repeatedly toss the tea leaves in a heated earthenware pot until a fragrant aroma wafted out before adding water. The first sip was slightly bitter, followed by a sweet aftertaste. If you're lucky, you might encounter a local elder playing the sanxian (a three-stringed plucked instrument) and singing traditional folk songs. The songs are mostly in Bai ethnic tunes; even if you don't understand them, it's okay. Just sitting next to them and listening to the rhythm will help you relax. Here, it costs only a few dozen yuan per person, and the tea can be refilled, saving you money compared to going to a tavern, and it feels more like a real Dali night.

Fourth stop: 22:30-23:30 The night ends outside the ancient city walls; the city gates and stone-paved roads are the main attractions.

It's about a 10-minute walk from the old teahouse to the west side of the city wall near the South Gate. After 11 PM, the tour groups and street vendors have mostly dispersed. The warm yellow floodlights on the city gate are still there, and the stone path under the gate reflects the night dew, making it a great spot for portrait photography. It's recommended to spend 20 to 30 minutes here to wrap things up, and avoid loud noises, as there are residents resting nearby.

If you get hungry, there are temporary stalls selling late-night soy milk and freshly fried dough sticks in the alley west of the South Gate. The taste is average, but they're hot, perfect for warming up your stomach before riding your electric scooter back to your accommodation. You won't need to take a taxi at all; the last shared electric scooter you can find still can be found within the old city. Just remember to check the battery level before scanning the QR code.

Five camera positions for night photography

The first vantage point was on the curved platform of Longkan Wharf, using the lake surface as a foreground at a low angle to capture the reflection of lights and the silhouette of Cangshan Mountain. The second vantage point was at the end of the pier at Caicun Wharf, around 6:50 PM, when the warm yellow lights were just illuminating. The third vantage point was at the entrance to the Luyu Road night market, using the steam from the steamer as a foreground; a telephoto lens with compression could capture the everyday life of the place. The fourth vantage point was by the wooden window of an old teahouse on Pingdeng Road, capturing the uncle roasting tea through the glass; the tungsten light created a warm color. The fifth vantage point was on the western section of the South Gate city wall; after 11 PM, when the tourists had dispersed, the archway served as a frame, and the reflections from the stone pavement added depth to the image.

4 Safety Tips

First, there are no motor vehicles on the Erhai Lake Ecological Corridor at night, but shared electric bikes and bicycles share the road; please do not suddenly stop in the middle of the road to take photos. Second, the cobblestone streets of the ancient city become particularly slippery with night dew or light rain; wearing non-slip shoes is more stable than sandals. Third, do not enter the unlit waterfront platforms or lakeside grassy areas late at night; the water level at Erhai Lake may not change significantly, but it is easy to slip into shallow water. Fourth, the Green Jade Road night market is crowded and chaotic; do not put your phone or camera in your outer pockets, and secure your bag after paying before leaving.

The biggest advantage of this route is that it follows a straight path without going around in circles, and it's not tiring at night, making it suitable for a leisurely stroll alone or with a partner. The true essence of Dali's nightlife isn't found in the bar streets, but in the lights and the sounds of tea roasting pots along Erhai Lake. Just remember to "go to Longkan before the lights come on, head to the night market before 7:30 PM, and find a teahouse after 9 PM," and you're unlikely to go astray.